#surfing

Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave. ↗

— Paul Walker

#awesome #been #disappears #experience #i

I thought how, with the peeling wave as an ideal of perfection, the surfer's object of passion becomes the very essence of ephemerality-not a thing to be owned or a goal to be attained but rather a fleeting state to inhabit. So much more of my time, after all, passed in the dreaming and searching than in the actual riding of waves; so much more time spent driving the coast and floating between sets. Of a whole year of devotion, probably no more than a day was spent truly on my feet and surfing, so I couldn't view such a moment as this without an ardent, frustrated desire, a near-religious craving for wholeness. Unlike so many other passions: while on might, I suppose, wish for a bloom to remain in blossom, for a ripening grape to hang always on the vine-yearnings John Keats made his own, for fleeting beauty and youth, the understandably hopeless hope that we might freeze our world's better moments-the wave's plenitude is rather in the peeling of the petal, the very motion of the falling fruit." Page 99 ↗

— Daniel Duane

#waves #beauty

And where I grew up in Australia, surfing was a part of culture. ↗

— Marc Newson

#culture #grew #i #part #surfing

When I was very young, I got my first opportunity in television with a show called 'Surfing the Menu,' and it was myself and another buddy. We traveled around Australia and we surfed and cooked and drank too much wine. And we had a lot of fun. ↗

— Curtis Stone

#around #australia #buddy #called #cooked

Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom. ↗

— Jolene Blalock

#bottom #concept #crashes #gonna #i

Being shaken to death by a Hawaiian tourist look-alike was not how Arena imagined her death. ↗

— Lynn Blackmar

#adventure #espionage #spy #surfing #teenage-spies

You never really know what's coming. A small wave, or maybe a big one. All you can really do is hope that when it comes, you can surf over it, instead of drown in its monstrosity. ↗

— Alysha Speer

#coping #drown #enduring #free #hope

It was all balance. But then, she already knew that from surfing. ↗

— Eve Babitz

#life #surfing #life

I kind of quit surfing when I got out of high school, but then a few years ago I started to take it up again. I'm not an expert by any means, but it's so wonderful to get out in the ocean and get a different perspective on things. ↗

— Jeff Bridges

#ago #any #different #different perspective #expert

You're surfing with all this glamour, and a lot of people are talking about Gwyneth, JLo, and Cameron. ↗

— Steven Cojocaru

#cameron #glamour #gwyneth #lot #people